| How to Open or Start a Swimming Pool in the Spring | | | | clear & clean. The less stuff in the water, the more |
| Starting or opening up a swimming pool is pretty simple. | | | | effective your initial shocking will be. |
| But it does require a bit of work and a couple of extra | | | | Clean the liner or tile line with a good quality pool |
| hands. Honestly, it's best to start a week or two | | | | surface cleaner like Off the Wall Surface Cleaner. DO |
| before you want to open it for not only best results, | | | | NOT use household cleaners as they can affect the |
| but also to take some of the "last minute" stress | | | | pH and add phosphates to the water which will |
| away. | | | | contribute to algae growth later on. This is where most |
| No matter whether you have an above ground pool or | | | | of the winter's scum has left its mark. Clean it off now |
| an inground pool, the basic work is the same or similar. | | | | while it is still "soft" & easy to remove rather than |
| Follow these simple steps with details & tips: | | | | when it bakes in the sun is more difficult to clean. |
| Remove all the leaves, dirt & debris from the winter | | | | Prevent this scum line (biofilm) from reforming with |
| cover before removing it. I can't tell you how many | | | | regular cleaning or by using AquaFinesse Pool Pucks. |
| times I've seen people let all of the winter mess just go | | | | Add your initial doses of shock & algaecide. Now you |
| right into the pool! Talk about extra work. I've seen | | | | can add the chemicals! When starting, don't skimp. Do |
| really clean "winterized" water become black with the | | | | a good "heavy" shocking and proper dosing of |
| "tea" & debris from the winter cover. Spend a couple | | | | algaecide at opening. In the long & short run, you're |
| of half-hours scooping the excess & accumulated | | | | going to save a lot more money by doing this the right |
| leaves from the top of the cover. Remember, it's not | | | | way. Follow the doses below. |
| just last fall's leaves; it's the spring pollen, tree | | | | Allow the opening or start up chemicals to circulate for |
| "helicopters" & pine needles too. | | | | 24 - 36 hours before doing any testing or water |
| Remove all winter & ice expansion plugs (Gizzmos). | | | | balancing. Why wait? 2 reasons: |
| You can't start the pump & filter system if water isn't | | | | 1. Additions of Shock & algaecide will change the |
| flowing from pool to filter & back! Be sure to replace | | | | water chemistry and water balance. That little bit of |
| the respective directional returns (eyeballs), suction | | | | time will allow the levels to settle back down for a |
| grates (usually used on lower suction fittings), Circulator | | | | more accurate reading. |
| fittings, etc. If you are using standard, stationary | | | | 2. The chemicals already in the pool water may be |
| eyeballs, remember to point the flow of water DOWN | | | | settled toward the bottom. This is especially true of |
| toward the bottom of the pool to optimize the | | | | cyanuric acid typically known as pool conditioner or |
| circulation. For even better circulation, consider | | | | stabilizer. If the water is not allowed to circulate & stir |
| replacing standard directional returns with "the | | | | up what's on the bottom, you will end up adding |
| Circulator". | | | | stabilizer that, more than likely, doesn't need any |
| Bring the Water Level up to normal operating level. If | | | | additions. This is a great way to save money. By the |
| the water on top of the cover is relatively clean & | | | | way, NEVER add conditioner or stabilizer unless the |
| algae free, use that water to fill the pool. It's free! It | | | | pool water needs it and only if the test shows a level |
| may be a little dirty, but that's okay, it will be treated | | | | of 20 ppm or less. Stabilizer or cyanuric acid levels |
| with the rest of the pool. At this time it's a really good | | | | should be no higher than 60 ppm. Higher levels are |
| idea to add either an algaecide to the water or a | | | | simply wasteful and provide nothing for the water |
| natural pool enzyme to start cleaning up the water and | | | | balance. |
| prepping it for the initial shock. If you are adding fresh | | | | Install ladders & deck equipment. Be sure to secure |
| tap water to top the pool off, add a good metal and | | | | tighten anchor bolts, diving board & slide anchors (if |
| mineral stain & scale control product to prevent | | | | equipped). Check to make sure bolts or hardware are |
| sudden metal stains, especially iron or copper, when | | | | in good condition. Replace worn or corroded nuts & |
| the pool is first shocked. | | | | bolts for your safety. |
| Carefully remove the winter cover. Clean it up, fold it | | | | Filter 24 hours before bringing in Opening water |
| up & store it away. When cleaning, use a good cleaner | | | | sample for Testing & Analysis. Adjust pH, Total |
| that is specifically made for cover material. A good | | | | Alkalinity & Calcium Hardness as needed. |
| chemical cleaning of the winter cover will lengthen the | | | | Chemically clean the filter with Kleen It or Strip Kwik |
| life of the cover by removing the dirt & soil from the | | | | Filter Cleaner after 2 weeks to remove the filtered |
| fabric (you wouldn't put dirty clothes away in the closet | | | | winter stuff. Chemically cleaning the filter about every |
| for the next season would you?) | | | | 8 weeks lengthens the life of the filter media and |
| Hook up the filter system. Properly attach the correct | | | | promotes longer filter runs. |
| hoses or pipes to the proper valves or fittings on the | | | | NEVER DRAIN your pool. The liner will shrink, voiding |
| pump and filter. Even I've made this mistake: the right | | | | the warranty and could cause damage to your pool. In |
| hose goes on the wrong filter fitting & 2 weeks later, | | | | gunite, plaster, or even fiberglass pools removal of the |
| the pool is still not clear! Here's the easiest way to | | | | water from the pool could result in the pool structure |
| remember: basket to basket (skimmer basket to pump | | | | "floating" and causing serious damage to the structure. |
| basket) and hole to hole (exit - "to pool" - hole on filter | | | | Always check with local builder for specific instructions. |
| valve or tank body to return opening on pool wall). Be | | | | Start up chemical doses in chlorine, bromine, ionizer, |
| sure to properly lubricate all multiport or shut-off valve | | | | salt-chlorine pools. Shocking must be thorough in order |
| "O" rings with a good silicone lubricant. Not only will you | | | | to break up residual chloramines (combined chlorines) |
| give the gasket added life, you'll help it seal more easily | | | | from winterizing. If chloramines are not dealt with now, |
| too. Don't over-tighten clamps on above ground hoses; | | | | a lingering chlorine demand (an inability to maintain a |
| over-tightening will often "crimp" the hose allowing air | | | | solid chlorine or bromine level) problem will develop. |
| leaks. REMEMBER: replace ALL of the drain plugs to | | | | Chlorine shock: un-stabilized Cal-Hypo is the preferred |
| the pump, filter tank & heater (if equipped). | | | | product to use on an initial spring shock. It gets in, |
| When starting the pump for the first time, be sure to | | | | oxidizes, then gets out (gasses off). Use at a rate of 3 |
| "prime" the pump with water. Don't start it dry, not only | | | | to 5 lbs per 5,000 gallons for best results. Do NOT use |
| can harm be done to the pump, extra stress & strain | | | | a non-chlorine shock with the initial start up. Liquid |
| is placed on the entire system. If your pump is below | | | | chlorine bleach is OK, but is very weak (about 11%) |
| the water level, as on most above ground pools, | | | | when compared to Cal-Hypo (about 60%). |
| priming probably isn't necessary because the water is | | | | Initial Algaecide: don't skimp with the algaecide! Always |
| naturally "falling down" to the pump (gravity feed). If the | | | | use an algaecide that has at least 30% active |
| pump & filter system is more than 3 ft above the | | | | ingredients. Be careful using algaecides with copper as |
| water level, priming is an absolute must. Keep in mind | | | | an active ingredient; improper use may lead to staining |
| that the system could take several minutes to "catch" | | | | of pool surfaces. Gallon jugs of algaecide typically |
| and start. | | | | contain less than 10% active ingredients and are a |
| SPECIAL NOTE: it is VERY normal for LOTS of | | | | virtual waste of money. Follow the label directions for |
| bubbles to come out of the return fittings when first | | | | an INITIAL dose, typically 1 - 2 quarts per 10,000 gallon. |
| starting. Even for up to 24 - 36 hours, some bubbles | | | | After adding the initial shock and algaecide, be sure to |
| will remain in the plumbing system while it returns to | | | | run the filter for 48 to 72 hours continually. DO NOT |
| normal operation. | | | | backwash the filter during this time. Let the filter and |
| SPECIAL TIP: to make the filter start easier, open the | | | | the chemicals do the work. |
| "air bleeder" valve on the top of the filter tank when | | | | Final & continuing steps: balance the water (pH, total |
| the filter starts. You will hear a big "whoosh" of air as it | | | | alkalinity, calcium hardness). Using additives such as |
| is pushed out of the filter. When water gushes out, | | | | borates and natural enzyme products will enhance any |
| replace or close that valve. If your filter does not have | | | | pool chemical care system you use. Be sure to shock |
| a manual air bleeder, temporarily remove the pressure | | | | the pool and add algaecide every 2 weeks to rid the |
| gauge for the same results. | | | | pool of swimmer waste cannot be filtered out and to |
| Clean & vacuum the pool of all dirt & debris. Get all of | | | | keep algae in check. |
| the excess stuff out of the pool before adding shock | | | | Follow the 5 keys to pool care. It's that easy. |
| & start up algaecide, especially if the water is relatively | | | | |